Bias Against Natural Hair Limits Opportunities for Black Women, Study Suggests

Recent evidence published in Social Psychological and Personality Science upholds long-held claims that Black women with straightened hair, and white women, are treated more favorably in the workplace than Black women wearing natural hairstyles. More importantly, the evidence suggests bias against Black women wearing natural hairstyles, which can have a negative impact on their professional career.

This information arrives despite the latest resurgence of the natural hair movement, an effort encouraging those of African descent to embrace their natural hair texture. Yet natural Black hairstyles (including afros, curls, braids, locs and twists) are still heavily stigmatized both in and outside of the Black community.

Hair Bias Can Begin During Recruitment

The recent findings indicate hair bias often begins during the hiring process. During the study, participants from various racial backgrounds were asked to evaluate potential job candidates. According to researchers at Duke University, the recruiters were more likely to rate Black women wearing natural hairstyles less professional and less competent, and therefore, less likely to recommend them for job interviews, compared to Black women with straightened hair and white women. The scores for white women did not vary, even for those wearing their naturally curly hair.

Regardless of race, most participants were biased against Black women wearing natural hairstyles. Although this only occurred while evaluating mock candidates for consulting positions, where dress codes tend to be more conservative, creative industries are not exempt from racial bias. Recent protests in the United States in response to the brutal police killings of George Floyd and Breonna Taylor spawned a racial reckoning in disproportionately white industries including publishing. 

Due to underrepresentation in corporate America, Black women are more susceptible to racist hiring practices and often lack the support needed to create positive change once inside an organization. According to research by the consulting firm McKinsey, white women made up 18% of the C-Suite in 2019, while white men accounted for 68%. Women of color, including Black, Asian, and Latina women, accounted for just 4% of the C-Suite.

Upholding White Beauty Standards

Hair bias often stems from stereotypes depicting natural Black hair as unclean, unkempt, and unsuitable for professional environments. In 2017, results from the "Good Hair" study revealed that white women perceived Black women’s textured hair as less attractive and less professional than “smooth hair." Black women feel pressured to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards in order to avoid social stigma.

For many Black women, there is no choice. In the most extreme cases, Black women wearing natural hairstyles have been penalized for violating organizational dress code policies and forced to straighten their hair in order to avoid termination. Race-based hair discrimination is one example of how white supremacy continues to control the bodily autonomy of Black women. 

Despite their popularity, chemical hair straighteners are costly and can cause lasting hair damage. Researchers at the National Institutes of Health (NIH) found that Black women using permanent hair dye every 5 to 8 weeks or more have a 60% increased risk of developing breast cancer.

The NIH findings also indicated that all women who use chemical hair straighteners every 5 to 8 weeks were 30% more likely to develop breast cancer—though the researchers noted that Black women use chemical hair straighteners more frequently than white women. Chemical hair straighteners are linked to cancer and other health risks because they contain carcinogens and other toxins.

What Is Being Done?

In an effort to work toward improving racial equity in the workplace, some employers have implemented a practice called "blind hiring." Any information which may indicate race or gender is removed from application materials. However, some experts have warned that blind hiring is not a substitute for working toward systemic organizational changes which help prevent racist behavior.

Legislation to prevent race-based hair discrimination has already been signed into law by a handful of states, including New York, New Jersey, California, and most recently, Virginia. Currently, the Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair (CROWN) Act is being considered by more than 20 additional states.

But in 2020, Black women should not be forced to have to wait for legislative changes that guard their basic human rights.